This mountain is covered in huge snow and ice fields. This is the true danger of this mountain. It does not matter what route you take, you will always be ‘up close and personal’ to some dangerous crevasses.
We will take the southwest pilar (spur) route . This route was opened by an Italian team in 1978 and will put us to the test, because we will have to climb in rock as well as in ice.
The last meters to the summit are blocked by a snow mushroom. Due to wind and solar radiation, the snow can take this strange shape. We will have to dig a route through this mushroom.