Kurumdi (6,613m), Kyrgyzstan, Asia
28 June 2003 Boris will be heading for Kyrgyzstan. Target is one of the unclimbed 6,000+ meter mountains of the Kurumdi-range in the eastern Pamir. There will be full support up to basecamp. Beyond basecamp it’s a total solo expedition.
This remote area at the southern outskirts of the former Soviet Union was closed to foreigners for the last two hundred years and its peaks have remained largely unknown. There are hardly any roads and no villages at all. The region is not charted in detail. The mountain range hass large glaciers, and 50 degrees steep faces of snow and ice of up to 2 kilometer high. There is no detailed route information.
Grandiose mountain and ice scenery characterise this range with beautiful Zarya Vostoka (6,349 m), the main peak Korumdy (6,613 m) – which have been climbed twice before – and four other unnamed summits in excess of 6,000m near the border with China and Tajikistan. Furthermore there are numerous 4,000 and 5,000 meter peaks waiting to be climbed for the first time.
The expedition is supported by Asia Mountains, a professional organisation in the Kyrgyz republic, with lots of experience in organisazing and supporting expeditions logistically. Climbers of Asia Mountains were the first to reach the summit of Peak Lenin in mid winter, with minus 60 degrees C. Last year they tried a technical winterascent on peak Pobeda. During our Peak Lenin expedition in 2002 they did an excellent job in arranging all facilities in basecamp and camp 1.
When I arrive in Bishkek they’ll pick me up and put me on the plane to Osh next morning. There also somebody will pick me up. After two days in Osh – among others for arranging the border permit – we’ll drive to basecamp, north of Kurumdi at 3,800 meters. They’ve allready build a basecamp there. Till I leave, four weeks later, there’s a tent available and they’ll provide warm good food three times a day. Beyond basecamp I’m all on my own without any support.
More information about Asia Mountains can be found on their website: www.asiamountains.net.